I started sewing around the same time I met my husband. Now it's 7+ years later and the only thing I've made for him is elastic waist pajama/lounge pants. You know, that Simplicity pattern that includes both boys & mens sizes. I figure I owe him a little more than that, given the considerable number of hours I've ignored him in favor of my sewing machine.
BWOF 3-2009-131 looked like a promising start. I've sewn several button-front shirts for myself, so that part isn't foreign territory, but fitting someone other than myself sure is.
First, I borrowed one of Tim's well-fitting RTW shirts and measured everything I could. Dutch label G-Star is a favorite brand, and their size small fits him like a glove. (If you're interested in exploring the brand, let me guide you to the collection on ssense, the actual G-Star site is annoyingly Flash-heavy and full of extraneous content.)
Comparing his body measurements to the Burda mens size chart, Tim falls between a size 42 and 44. Shirt 3-2009-131 starts at size 48, so I graded down 2 sizes during tracing. I modified the shoulder length and waist to match the G-Star shirt, and this is how the first muslin looks:
The front is pretty good, there is maybe a bit of extra fabric in the chest. The sleeves are a little big, I don't think those bodice wrinkles are important.
Oh, and do you notice how the right shoulder is a little lower in the left? This is the first time I ever noticed this. For some reason, it just cracked me up. Not because it is truly funny, but more like it was hitting me that there were more fitting 'challenges' than I was bargaining for. This is totally normal; in fact, David Page Coffin devotes nearly a full page of Shirtmaking to a discussion of whether or not to adjust for asymmetrical shoulders in your pattern.
The back is too big, in that the shoulders are too wide and there is too much fabric in the upper back. I need to fix this by pinning out the excess, or perhaps I'll just trace the back bodice of the G-Star shirt.
*Sigh* And I was hoping for a "straight out of the envelope" experience. Maybe I just should have traced the RTW shirt to begin with. More on men's shirts to come.
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