What I've been up to

Wow, I didn't mean to go dark for nearly 2 weeks like I did! (Since 24 has started up again, there's a lot of CTU-speak here at home...).

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Thanks everyone for your fabric suggestions for the Burda 7526 maternity pants! It seems like a firm knit is the most popular suggestion, although there was high praise for bengaline, a fabric that is technically a woven but with lots of stretch and is commonly seen in RTW maternity pants. I've found it online but I'm not sure if I've seen it locally (Seattleites, let me know if it's out there). I think I'll test out the pattern with a knit first, and then seek out the bengaline if I like the fit.


In the meantime, I've finished a Patrones blouse and 2 more Jalie knit tops (2804 again). Still need to take some pictures of those.  A knit dress is next in queue.


I've given myself until the end of this month to finish up any maternity sewing. I'm due mid-April, so that'll give me about 6 weeks (hopefully!) to focus on baby sewing, or maybe just relaxing :)

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they're weighing me down...

There's a whole room re-org happening here at my house to make way for baby, so the other day I went through nearly every book, magazine, and pattern in my sewing area to pare it all down. I feel like I hardly made a dent, but I am happy to report that I'm freeing myself of about 100 envelope sewing patterns.  Most of them (sadly) unused.  (It makes me really appreciate how compact a Burda magazine collection is!)  My BurdaStyle Sewing Club peeps are getting first dibs on them, I'll use FreeCycle to get rid of anything left over.

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In the midst of all the purging, though, I have added a few great things to my sewing area.

First, these Kai professional series scissors, a gift from Birgitte, are fantabulous!! Seriously, I have a pair of regular (non-professional) Kai scissors and I didn't think there could be a better pair of scissors out there. Well there are. Even my husband commented on what nice quality they are. Thanks again, Birgitte!!

And my local sewing pal Amy gifted me these Ottobre back issues. Talk about insanely adorable kids clothes. I can't wait to dive into these come March when the baby sewing marathon begins.  Thanks Amy!

Maternity pants

June asked if I'm planning on making any maternity pants. Well... here's my pants situation:

1. I bought 2 pairs of stretch woven pants early in pregnancy in the juniors section at Marshalls for about $12 each. One pair is very low-waisted and is still wearable, the other pair I tried inserting a Dritz maternity panel, but they turned out horrendous so I ditched those.

2. I bought 2 pairs of maternity jeans, one from the Gap and one from the Dutch maternity chain Noppies (purchased when I was in Munich last month).  (My workplace is pretty casual and "nicer" jeans are okay.)

3. I bought the maternity pants pattern from Burda's newly released envelope patterns - Burda Style 7526. I just can't figure out what fabric to use! The recommended fabric is "only very elastic fabrics with 2-way stretch". Does that mean you should use a woven or a knit? If a knit is recommended, doesn't it usually say that explicitly? If they want you to use a woven, what kind of woven would have enough stretch? The style includes adjustable buttonhole elastic in the waistband so you can cinch or let out the waistband as needed.  I like the bootcut, but I'm not quite sure where to start fabric-wise.  What do you think?

Jalie empire crossover top - Take 2

28 weeks

Alrighty, I made another Jalie 2804 top on Sunday. (Recall my recent test version.) This one is a light chartreuse-y yellow rayon/lycra that I got at Stonemountain & Daughter in November. This is no test garment, it's the real thing!

The modifications:

(1) Traced one size larger, size T

(2) Made View A which has the gathered lower front bodice, I think this flatters the growing belly.

(3) Omitted the modesty panel

(4) Altered the front lower bodice for a "full tummy" using this Rostitchery tutorial. I added about 1 inch to each side seam (for an additional 2" around, total) and lengthened the center front by 1.5". As you can see, the side seams are still pulling forward and it'll only get worse as I grow larger, so next time I'll swing out the side seam more.

I'm very happy with this version!

Also, I want to thank Katherine for sharing some additional maternity alteration webpages, both from patternschool.com. Scroll halfway down this page where a pregnancy alteration to a tankini is shown (similar to the Rostitchery alteration), and this page gets into the nitty gritty theory behind the changing pregnancy figure. It's fascinating!

Study in empire crossover tops

Browsing through my BWOF back issues, I found this knit empire waist tee maternity pattern, 08-2005-123, that looked like the perfect piece to help get me through the next 3 months. Seeing this style, though, reminded of a Jalie pattern that I've had in my stash, yet to make.

Jalie 2804 just won a place in Pattern Review's top 10 patterns of 2009, and while it's not marketed specifically as a maternity top, it's said to be appropriate for that purpose too, and ever since I first saw these pics of Emilie during her pregnancy (check out pg 3 for top 2804 in a white sleeveless version), I mentally filed it away as a promising pregnancy pattern.

Since the two patterns are fairly similar, one designed as maternity wear, one winning accolades from seamstresses all over the internet, I decided to make both as a "compare and contrast" study, with the thought that I could take my favorite pieces/features of each top and morph them into one uber-fabulous pattern.

Fabric
100% cotton knit from Denver Fabrics.  For the "real thing", I would certainly use a knit with lycra for better recovery, but the 100% cotton worked for the test garments.

Size
Jalie 2804 - I cut an S based on my pre-pregnancy measurements. This is my first Jalie pattern so I figured I'd just start there.

BWOF 8-2005-123 - I cut a 38 since that's my regular BWOF size.

Both patterns were sewn entirely as directed per the pattern instructions and with no alterations. Anyway, take a look, I think the pictures speak for themselves...

 

 

Are you totally cringing at that BWOF top? I still am and it's been almost a week! It's AWFUL! The bust is waaaaay too big. Yes, the girls grow, but not that much. I would never fill in the top. And the loose bust makes the tight belly section look almost comical. I hate the way the top hangs down below the belly, as in the side view.  Talk about schlumpadinka...

Here's the Burda mag model photo.  It's a little more fitted and actually looks decent. Nothing like mine!  Maybe if I went down 2+ sizes?

Jalie, on the other hand, is golden in my book right now! I need to go up a size or two because, frankly, this top makes me feel slightly like a sausage in casing, but that I can deal with, especially once some lycra is added to the mix. Yup, new Jalie fan over here *waves hands*. Good thing too because I just bought their new cardigan, leggings, and the criss-cross top! The criss-cross top seems to have mixed reviews, but it's said to be good for nursing, and the pregnant model on the envelope looks good in hers so I'll see if I can make it work for me.

Needless to say, I won't be morphing these two patterns into one. I'm just going to work straight from the Jalie. I found this great blog post by Morzel that shows how to turn 2804 into a nursing top, so that's my eventual plan.

If it doesn't fit, make it in a knit

I realize I haven't done a good job of sharing my baby bump with you so far.  But rest assured, it's there and growing day by day, well beyond the "is she or isn't she?" stage, thank goodness.  It's definitely to the point that most of my regular clothes don't fit and my new requirement for tops and dresses is that they must be either knits and/or have an empire waist. Let the maternity sewing officially begin!

Burda magazine 2-2009-110

I have been coveting this BWOF pattern every since I saw Birgitte's fun silk charmeuse version. Even though it's not a maternity pattern, it has the necessary characteristics - an empire waist and a flowy, roomy area below the bust.

I flat-measured the waist on the pattern and found it would have plenty of room and then some, so I went ahead and cut the top in a purple silk/cotton woven shirting (I've mentioned before this is one of my favorite fabrics ever, it's available here at Fabric.com and I've seen it at various indie fabric stores; I used it to make this purple dress and this green dress). I cut my regular, trustworthy, Burda size 38 and set to work. Here's the outcome:

I knew my bust had grown, I had to buy new bras after all, but it never dawned on me that I'd be playing for Team FBA now! Sigh... I did wear the top once, to my BurdaStyle sewing club get-together last weekend. The poor little buttons are just straining to keep the top closed; if I just button the bottom two and wear a cami underneath, it's still obvious, so I think that'll be the last time I can wear it until I have my post-pregnancy, post-nursing bust back.

Back view - love the shape

27 weeks

My only modification to this pattern was to gather the sleeve hems onto a narrow sleeve band, instead of finishing the sleeve hems with elastic in a casing, which I think tends to looks Becky Home Ec-y (that doesn't mean you won't ever see me use that finish, though!).

Still, I couldn't get the style out of my head, I really like it and I find the style to be flattering as maternity-wear. Lightbulb moment - make it in a knit! The bodice is close enough to fitting, a knit would easily accommodate the negative ease situation, and no FBA necessary!

I rifled through the stash and found some chocolate rayon/lycra jersey (same stuff I used to make Simplicity 2850). My modifications:

1) I cut the upper front bodice on the fold instead of in 2 pieces, and scooped out the neckline a bit. Not having to stitch up tiny bias button loops and a bias band finish for the neck were major timesavers!

2) I lined the bodice with black tissue knit, mainly to give it an easy neckline finish.

3) I borrowed an idea from Jazz Couture's gorgeous LMB tunics to finish the sleeve hem with a self-fabric drawstring in a casing. My drawstrings don't look quite as delicate as hers, next time I would sew them a bit more narrow.

4) Because of the stretchiness of the knit, I was able to omit the invisible zipper in the side seam.

I am so happy with the knit version of this pattern, and the best part is with all of my modifications, it's a pretty quick little garment to sew up.  I have plans to make another, in a dress length, and I think I'll change up the front pleat for a little variety.

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Next up, a comparison of a BWOF and a Jalie - both empire crossover knit tops, but two oh so different outcomes...

Trench coat love

Thanks to a fellow Pattern Review member, I was able to find the ever elusive Patrones magazine during my trip to Germany last month. This is Issue 284, the fall Extra issue.

Since my back issues of Patrones Extra have included maternity patterns, I was disappointed that this issue had none.  (Apparently maternity patterns are increasingly unpopular - in 2009, Burda magazine also ditched their once-a-year, throw a bone to the pregnant ladies, handful of maternity patterns they typically published in their August issue. Not to mention that the maternity patterns from the Big 4 are all leftovers from the 1990s or out of print. I actually have a whole maternity pattern rant post in draft mode that I'm sitting on...).

Anyway, as Melissa shared with us, Patrones has dropped the designer names from their patterns, but the clothes and the photoshoots are as fashiony as they always were.  Issue 284 has a collection of not-your-typical trench coats (including the coat on the cover) that I think really stand out.

Here, a big ruffle adds pizazz to an otherwise straightforward & simple coat.

 

I lied, this one is a pretty typical trench coat, but desirable nonetheless.

 

This one's all drapey and doesn't seem to have any closures (unless there's a hidden snap at the waist), hence the need for a RTW belt. Looks like a great layering piece.

 

This one's my fave. It has a hood! I loooove hoods on jackets and coats - when you live in a city that has as many impromptu gentle rain showers as Seattle, having a hood is golden. I examined the line drawing and the pattern pieces for this one and I so don't know what's going on... This one could be a future Big Project, but don't hold your breath.

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I do have a new BWOF top done, just need to take some pics, so that'll be making an appearance here soon. I've also been tracing Patrones and Burda patterns like crazy. Let's see if I can crank any of those out during the upcoming 3-day weekend.

First project of the year - The Tessuti Top

Thanks for all of the ideas on how to salvage Butterick 5418 (the would-be New Years Eve dress). The suggestions included:

1) additional hand-stitching/tacking to hold the pleats in place on the lining
2) cutting the bodice lining smaller (~1.5 cm) and ease to fit the bodice, so that the front will be pulled to the inside (much in the way an undercollar is cut smaller than an outer collar)
3) inserting a weight in the bodice lining hem to give it some oomph against the heavy pleats
4) inserting boning to support the bodice lining

I am going to hang on to the muslin and I'll fiddle with the dress. If I find a solution, I'll be sure to let you know!

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First project of 2010! And honestly, I'm not trying to hide my pregnancy, but this top does a very good job of it...

A local sewing friend made Tessuti's "Our Fave Top", and after trying hers on, I was convinced I needed my own too. The pattern is available as a free download on the Sew Tessuti blog. It's super easy and fast to make up. I started mine sometime after 5pm and wore it out that same evening. I used a grey viscose/lycra that I bought in November at Stonemountain and Daughter. My special touches:

1) I stablized the shoulder seams with Japanese bias-cut woven interfacing to prevent them from stretching out

2) I fused the hem in place with Steam-a-Seam 2, then stitched it in place with the decorative and stretchy lightning stitch. Fusing the hem closed before stitching made the job much easier, especially considering this top has a lot of hem!

I need a good necklace to go with this top, so in lieu I wore a small across-the-shoulder purse. And with such a voluminous top, a fitted bottom is a must. Yup, I'm wearing the controversial garment known as jeggings. Let me tell you, when you are pregnant and you want to wear skinny pants, jeggings are your best friend. Anything with 5% lycra is your best friend.

Thanks to Tessuti Fabrics for the awesome pattern!

2009 garments in review

I don't feel like I was very productive this year, and frankly I was surprised to see that I made 23 garments in 2009, it felt like less.  I'd love to say I will sew more in 2010, but with a baby on the way, I think that would be setting myself up for failure.  Unless burp cloths count.

The winners
Several garments qualified as winners for me in 2009:

I got compliments every time I wore BWOF 7-2009-104, the shirred waist shirtdress. The 1950's silhouette is not normally my thing, but this dress has a special place in my heart, and wardrobe.

 

I think I wore this scalloped edge summer jacket, BWOF 6-2008-102, every other day last summer. The only downside is that it doesn't have pockets.

 

Despite the fact this it was published over 4 years ago, BWOF 10-2005-114 is still popular today, and it's no wonder, given that it's so easy and the cowl neck is fashiony and flattering. This was my second go at this top, I made it in an acrylic sweater knit which pilled to death after several washings and it's now residing in a landfill. I'd like to make this again, in a natural fiber...

 

I fought first trimester fatigue to make this jacket, BWOF 9-2009-127 in Carolina Herrera wool coating, and it was worth every minute because I feel like it came straight from a Neiman Marcus catalog.

 

I reached for this top, BurdaStyle Ellinor tunic download 8516, and a pair of heels whenever I wanted to dress up for dinner or a gathering with friends. Wish I had 5 more like it.


The loser

I used a stretch linen to make BWOF 7-2008-107, and the neckline was so stretched out, there was always a bra strap or two showing when I wore this. Took it to Goodwill a while back, hopefully it worked better for someone else.

Happy new year and here's to a productive year of sewing in 2010!