I'm heading to Miami for vacay next week for a much needed Vitamin D boost. Naturally I've tried to sew up a few things for the trip. I originally had a list of about 10 garments that I just had to sew up (ha!) but the reality of a 24-hour day took over and I think I've got 2 or 3 new things for my suitcase.
First up is a pants pattern that is new for Spring 2009, Burda 7653. I've talked before about my love of loose-fitting summer pants, so it comes as no surprise that I'd have a thing for this pattern. They remind me of the style seen in several Spring 2009 collections.
I used a linen/rayon blend from my local fabric store. It's hard to tell in the photos (which I even lightened), but it's got both blue and black threads running through it for a dark blue effect. It is key that you choose a drapey fabric for this style.
I made a total newbie error when I purchased this fabric. The envelope said that my size would need 1 and 7/8 yds of 55" fabric, and I was in a thrifty mood, so I asked for exactly 1 and 7/8 yds at the cutting counter. I didn't even round up to 2! Then I got it home, pretreated the fabric by throwing it in the washer and dryer, pulled it out, and - whoa! I had about 1.5 yards of fabric at that point. I was plotting out how I'd cut the pieces in a single layer and use a different fabric for the facings and pocket lining, but in the end it turned out to be fine, all the pattern pieces fit on the folded fabric!
One more note about the fabric I chose - it was a total PITA to work with. It was a woven, but it should have belonged in the "slinky" section. What a finicky fabric. It behaved like silk crepe, in that as soon as I unpinned the cut pattern piece from the pattern, the fabric morphed out of shape and I could never get it to quite match the pattern piece again. This was a real issue with the back waistband pieces. The pants close in the CB with a zipper, so there are 2 back waist pieces and facings to match. There are no notches to help you match the back waist to the front waist at the side seam. I would definitely add these next time.
Notes about construction/alterations
This is rated as a "very easy" pattern, and really, it is. I made no alterations, and I have nothing to complain about construction-wise. It features pockets, a center back zipper, and the cropped style (B) has a band sewn at the hem that acts as a drawstring. I see that my hem falls above the calf and the model's is near her ankle. I know her legs are longer than mine, so either I tied my bands too tight so that they sit up on top of my calf, or her waistband is looser so her pants sit lower, or both.
I guess my jury is still out about these pants. When I tried them on, they felt huge (as far as excess thigh fabric), but seeing the pictures I don't think they look bad for casual summer pants. I think I've just got to get used to them.