Jenna's holiday duet dress

I was catching up on TV this week, including the December 10, 2009 episode of 30 Rock (Secret Santa), and don't you think Jenna's dress here looks just like Cynthia Steffe - Vogue 1151?

Jumpsuit, emphasis on "suit"

Photo: Lanetzliving.com

Photo: Style.com

Alright, who is going to pounce on this 2003 Vogue at Lanetz Living so you can copy this Stella McCartney jumpsuit from the Spring 2009 RTW collection? I can't pull this off but I'm sure there is some tall lanky reader out there who can!

New Vogues

Vogue posted new patterns on their site yesterday and I was surprised at how stylish they were! So often it's a bunch of boring business suits but I saw several details that I really liked this time:

The gathered sleeve on this Badgley Mischka jacket, Vogue 1099.


The curved sleeve hem of this Anne Klein jacket, Vogue 1098.


I like pretty much everything about this DKNY jacket, Vogue 1093.


The gathered waistband of this jacket looks very RTW, Vogue 8562.


And - something funny happened. Yesterday Cindy and I were talking over email about the new patterns and I told her that I liked this new Michael Kors dress, Vogue 1090. Then I was at Nordstrom Rack after work and look what I found:

I just had to do a dressing room photo shoot a la Ambika. The dress is 100% wool, unlined. It closes with an invisible zip in the CB seam.


Check out the price tag. Originally $1995, marked down to $699, and 75% off that makes it $175. If I make this, I could probably manage to keep it under $30.

Black and tan

I'm not a fan of the drink, but apparently this combination of neutral colors appeals to me - both of my completed projects from this weekend were comprised of these colors.

First up, a DKNY dress. I started this a couple weeks ago and finally finished it (almost) today.

Vogue 1027

It's unhemmed here, I still need to let it hang overnight because the skirt is cut on the bias.

Fabric
Anne Klein poly/lycra jersey purchased a few weeks ago at the PacFab Outlet.

Notes on construction/alterations
Most of the reviews for this dress on Pattern Review suggest sizing down. I made a muslin of the bodice, and chose a size 6 for the dress. Just like my recent experience with the McCalls dress, it doesn't make sense given their measurement charts, but it works.

I finished the neckline and the armholes with fold-over elastic, my first time using this stuff. I was inspired by Cidell's use of FOE on this knit dress. Let's just say, it was a little bit stressful! The trick is stretching it the right amount while you are sewing. I tested it on a piece of scrap fabric, but apparently that wasn't enough practice, because when I sewed it on the bodice, the whole thing was wavy and loose - I didn't pull it taut enough during sewing. Good thing I had enough fabric leftover! I cut a new bodice and was successful the second time around.

If you follow the pattern directions, the wrong side of the belt ties will show (they have you just turn under the raw edges of the ties and stitch). Since I didn't want the wrong side of my fabric to show, here's how I made the belt:

First I stitched the back band (piece 5) and the two tie ends (piece 4) together. I applied fusible interfacing to the points that would be clipped, marked with a large circle on the pattern piece.

I turned the belt right sides together and stitched the tie ends up to the point of reinforcement. Then I clipped the seam allowance right up to that point.

This is what it looks like when you turn everything right side out. Here I'm holding the seam allowance that will be sewn into the waist seam.



A detail that goes unnoticed until you read the directions - the "belt" is sewn into the waist seam and kind of hangs free. The two ends are tied in the front.

I omitted the elastic in the waistband. Also, I noticed that a few other people who made this pattern omitted the pockets from the skirt but I included them.

Conclusion
I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. Just need to hem it now. I feel like the current length is a little bit dowdy on me. I think I'll try hemming it so it's just below the knee.

************

On Saturday, I made another Hot Patterns Once, Twice, Three Times a T-Shirt-turned-dress (here's version 1).

This was another one of those projects sewn in a rushed, frenetic pace so I could wear it that night. Yes, the hem is totally wavy, and I wore it out like that! I could tell it was happening while I was sewing the hem, but I didn't have time fuss with everything to get it better. Besides, no one can see your hem when you're sitting at a dinner table. I'll fix it later.



Fabric
Tan modal rayon/lycra jersey, black sheer knit for contrast.

Notes on construction/alterations
I altered the neckline for a more open, rounded neckline. I did the same thing on the back too - there is no "front" or "back" on this dress, both sides are identical. It's hard to see in the picture, but I used the twisted neckband binding technique again.

I also took a bit of the width out of the bodice so the sleeves are not as dropped as the original.


This was completely unintentional, but when I finished, the constrast sleeve bands reminded me of the New England Patriots jersey. Kind of a sporty look.



Conclusion
I like this dress more than my previous version. I think because the neckline is more open. I'm still interested in doing this in a woven. Soon, I hope!

Wardrobe garments 9 & 10: Bermuda shorts and tote

Phew! I was sewing like a madwoman to get all this done by Sunday, and I'm actually a little surprised that I met my deadline! I will post a summary of my thoughts about the wardrobe process soon. But first here are the two final pieces, and my next post will be a collage of my finished garments.

Bermuda shorts
I knew I wanted a pair of Bermuda shorts as part of my collection, and luckily I remembered this Vogue pattern I bought last year, it's been sitting in my stash untouched but it sure saved the day as I (surprisingly) did not find a Burda magazine shorts pattern I was interested in.

Vogue 8365

I cut the pattern for View A (sans pleats) and lengthened the legs about 5" for the Bermuda effect.

Fabric:
Linen with lycra(?) or some other kind of stretch from Pacific Fabrics. I found this fabric a couple of months ago, it was a one time thing for them, and I'm seriously wishing I had purchased more because I *love* this fabric.



Notes on construction/alterations
Why didn't anyone tell me the fly front is easier to do than an invisible zipper? Seriously! I practiced the zipper on my muslin, and I couldn't believe how simple it was. Of course, I had some help. I watched Sandra Betzina's fly front tutorial video a few times and I had another window open showing me Debbie Cook's jeans front tutorial. Let me tell you, this has opened up a whole new world of (apparel) possibilities for me!



I finished the inner leg seams with a flat fell seam, and I used contrast cotton fabric for the fly facing.

Conclusion
Fun, easy shorts. And two days later, I'm still glowing from making the fly front.

Tote
I came across this buttery leather tote on Shopbop and decided it would be the perfect inspiration piece for my wardrobe accessory.

Martine Sitbon, $427, Shopbop

Fabric
Foiled linen from Joann, same that I used in this tunic.
I interfaced the outside of the bag and the facings with Pro Woven fusible from
Sew Exciting.

Notes on construction
The inspiration bag has 4 pleats and 8 pintucks on each side, I included those same details in my pattern.


I started by folding the pleats into my pattern piece and then I drew in the pintucks.


With the pleats on the pattern piece pinned in place, I placed tracing paper over it to draft the facing and lining.



These are my pattern pieces, except for the straps - I just used a rotary cutter and quilting ruler to cut those out.


I sandwiched a single layer of cotton quilt batting in the straps to provide some comfort.

There is a zippered pocket inside, and the bag closes with a magnetic snap. Yes, one is silver and one is gold! The store I was at didn't have a gold zipper in the correct size, and I didn't have time to go around searching for a better match. It's our little secret...

I squared off the bottom corners of the bag.

Conclusion
Overall I'm very happy with how this turned out, especially given that it was a rush job. The pleats in my bag don't hold very well, especially the outermost ones. Also, after I sewed the lining & outside together and turned the bag right side out through a very small opening, the linen fabric was quite wrinkled; all my careful ironing was for nothing. But I still like it and it'll be a nice change when I'm not in the mood to carry a leather monstrosity.

Someone forgot to order the props for the Vogue photoshoot...

...so they had to make do with the table from the staff breakroom.

Vogue 1025

Okay, that's fine, it's subtle.

Vogue 1037

Work another angle, I like that.

Vogue 1041

Sure, I'm game, let's try one with a little cube.

Vogue 1038

Really??

Another one for the stash

Vogue just released new fall/winter patterns. Some decent stuff, stuff that may grow on me after repeated exposure or seeing someone make them up. I did finally take advantage of Vogue's free pattern offer and purchased this one:




Vogue 8442. The buttons on the sleeve are cute, and there is potential for mixing fabrics, using contrast topstitching, etc.



For my next project, I'm planning to use some denim I bought in Montreal to make another pair of the Hot Patterns sailor pants. Hopefully it'll be a quick project, although I am spending Friday night in Vancouver, so that'll kill half the weekend...

My name is Christina and I'm a patternholic

Usually when I buy vintage patterns online, $5 is my limit. And if I'm at a yard sale, then most I would spend is $1, and I'd try to bargain it down.




But I couldn't help myself. Last night I was cruising Lanetz Living, one of my favorite vintage pattern resources, when I came across this Vogue pattern. It was love at first sight. It's my size. And with a simple $15 Paypal exchange, it is now mine.

I think what really got me is the back yoke with the little buttons. I am contemplating making 7 of these in different colors; along with the assortment of tights in my closet, it would be a great winter uniform.


At least I held myself back from buying 2 more patterns in order to qualify for free shipping, fooling myself into thinking it was a "good deal". I did use my Friends of PR 15% discount code, but then with the shipping, it was really a wash.

New Vogue Fall 2007 patterns

The first fall Vogue patterns were released today, was it just me who had a hard time trying to access Vogue's website this afternoon? Anyway, this evening I had no problem. I found a few nice pieces (of course!).

The ruffled collar on this coat (Vogue 8438) is very appealing to me.

View B of Vogue 8436 (the brown coat) is whispering my name.

Here is a great cocktail dress and an evening gown in one pattern, and they are "very easy" to boot (Vogue 8416).

Embrace the wide-leg trend with these Alice and Olivia pants (Vogue 2981).

This Sandra Betzina dress will be perfect for your Halloween witch costume (Vogue 2977). Broom not included.