Monday, June 23, 2008

BWOF Project of the Month: May

And now, back to the regularly scheduled programming: Sewing!






It's my May Burda mag project. I actually cut out the fabric in May but didn't get it finished until last week... (And did you notice that I skipped BWOF Project of the Month: April? I was occupied with my summer wardrobe then so I'm considering it a bye month).



Fabric
Cotton twill by Robert Kaufman in a brownish-grey color. The instructions suggest batiste, which would be too sheer unless it's underlined, but any shirting will do. My fabric is a bit on the heavier side, but it works.

Construction/alterations
I made only 2 alterations: I took out 3/4" length between the bust and waist, and I shortened the hem 1". This design has a fair amount of ease in the bodice, and it's meant to be cinched with a belt.



My favorite feature of this dress is the buttons. The instructions call for "buttons with two 6mm (a cant 1/4 inch) long slits each. I asked about these at my local fabric store and was pleased to find out they had exactly what I needed. Well, the slits are 9mm, but close enough. The total button diameter is 11/16 inch (18 mm) and they're made by Dill. They actually come in larger sizes as well.



You cut a long skinny strip of fabric, sew it into a tube, and turn it right side out to form the button band. My fabric was too thick to fit through the button slits so I used a coordinating light-weight cotton. After you slide the all of the buttons on the button band, you machine-stitch along either side to hold them in place.



Last night I noticed that my husband's RTW jacket from G-Star has similar buttons; they're held in place with twill tape.

I didn't get good pictures, but other neat features of this dress are the grommets on the pocket flaps (non-functional) and tons of topstitching - on the collar, hem, and belt. I started the project with a brand new spool of thread, the smallest size Mettler makes (150m); I ran out of thread near the end of the project and had to run out for more.



Conclusion
This pattern is rated only 1.5 dots, and it certainly is easy: cut-on kimono sleeves, cut-on button bands, and no waist seam. The details make it a bit time consuming but it's worth it in the end! I just bought fabric to make another...

51 comments:

Adrienne said...

Very, very cute! Love the buttons!!

Jujubee said...

The technical drawing doesn't really appeal, but I love the way your dress turned out. It looks great on you! Thanks for the info about the buttons too; I'll have to see if my local store carries any.

toy said...

it looks great, very rtw, you did a great job

AllisonC said...

That looks so great, a modern take on a shirt dress, it really suits you no wonder you're making another. I hadn't even noticed the neat button detail before, though I had seen it on a BWOF jacket, not sure if it's the same issue or not.

katherine h said...

Thanks for sharing that button detail...I'll have to look out for some

LauraLo said...

This is a great dress, the style suits you so well. I really admire and must congratulate you on your workmanship, it looks perfect!

Elaray said...

Cute dress! Don't you just love those BWOF details like that button treatment. I like the grommets, too.

cidell said...

Ok. Seriously. You are too cute for words! I had NO interest in this dress and couldn't figure out why it was your latest obsession. I now (painfully) covet this dress. The button details is fantastic. And, I LOVE the shoes. Gladiator without being ridiculous.

Stephanie said...

I love the style. So chic! You have my head realing now with how the attached the twill tape on your husbands jacket. Did they just sew above and beneath the buttons? It's such a neat idea.

Stephanie said...

Ok, I just reread your part about the buttons and realized you already explained how to attach them. Such a great idea.

~ Kimberlee ~ said...

Too cute!

Lashell said...

Welcome back. Great dress.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Oh, I am soooo stealing the button band idea! Especially since I have some buttons like that in my button collection already.

The dress is very kewl and I can see why you want to make another one so quickly...great style...comfortable to wear...designer details = a hit!!!

melissa said...

ooh this is fantastic! I hadn't even looked twice at this in the magazine, too. And I've never even heard of those kind of buttons before, they're very RTW!

Rashida said...

Wow! It looks fantastic! Okay, I need this pattern. ^_^

loopylulu said...

Too cute for words. Can I make one too? =)

Sewfast said...

All I can say is cute, Cute, CUTE!!! Love the details...I have a nice poplin that I think will be perfect...sew little time, sew many great projects!!! Mary

Peggy said...

Thanks for pointing out the cool button detail -- It racks up the points for sure!

Dawn said...

Very cute! I didn't love their version but yours is super cute.

I do have a question for you though. I struggled with all the topstitching on the BWOF jacket I just finished because I didn't know how to end the stitches. Your collar is similar so maybe you have a good idea about it. I didn't want to backstitch with the topstitching thread because it would look funny. I decided tie off the ends since it seemed to be the best option but the tiny knots show. What did you do?

Christina said...

Dawn - I tied off the ends too (no backstitching). I just made sure to have the knots on the wrong side/inside of the garment. I know that I'd wear the collar folded out like in the model photo, so on the collarband, the knots are on the underside. I should take a look at some RTW topstitching to see what they do...

Nancy W. said...

I'm so glad you made this dress. I have been thinking about it, but you never can tell with BWOF poses how it will look IRL. Your dress looks so cute on you, and the details are amazing. Now, I'll have to try to find those buttons...

Sheila said...

Awesome dress and thanks for sharing the button band technique.

Rose said...

Very charming! I didnt' notice the button band feature it the magazine. I like how your dress turned out!

The J said...

AWESOME dress! (brain humming...)

Another option for the topstitching: at the beginning and end, set your stitch length to zero, and have the needle go up and down 3 or 4 times in the same place. It locks the stitches without needing to go backwards.

Christina said...

The J - Great idea!

Dawn said...

Thanks Christina and The J! Great idea! Christina- I did the same thing. My knots are on the underside of the collar when I wear it folded over.

Cafe Couture said...

this is a cute dress! bravo!really nice and such attention to details...

Anonymous said...

I really love your dress! How many yards of fabric did it take? I have some great pinstripe I would love to use, but only 2 yards. BWOF says 2.5. What do you think?

susan

paco peralta said...

Christina .- this dress is fabulous and you look very, very, very modern and urban. congratulations. Paco

Reethi said...

Wonderful dress!

Lori said...

Wow, this is an incredible dress and your fabric is perfect.

Melissa said...

Gorgeous dress Christina! Such excellent details and only 1.5 dots too. I had my eye on that one, you make me want to sew it right up.

narcissaqtpie said...

I was loving this dress too. no guts to try it though. the details + your style make it even more fab

Christina said...

susan - I don't think 2 yards will cut it, unfortunately! For a size 38, the length including SAs is ~41 inches. I purchased 2 and 3/4 yards per the instructions (2.5 m) and used up most of the fabric. Plus, the front pattern piece is 27" at its widest point and may need to be cut in a single layer, depending on the width of your fabric...

Christy said...

I love this dress now!
I love your details!
Very, very cute on you!
Now I want to make this dress.

Kelroc said...

That a perfect summer dress. Very cute.

laura said...

Way too cute. I know I won't make it but just seeing the button method up close like that gives a person some ideas!!!

Karen said...

I love the button / twill tape idea. BWOF is definitely all about the details - I wouldn't have looked at this dress otherwise, and now I'm mentally going through the stash. I guess the fabric will depend on where and what color I can find those buttons.

Tany said...

FABULOUS!! I've been eyeing this pattern too, but I'm not quite sure I'll be able to find buttons like those. I could use othe buttons but the ones you used add a very nice feature to this dress!!

Anonymous said...

Covet the dress - love, love your blog. Please tell me where to get those buttons - the Dill button lady at the local fabric store said they don't make them. Please let me know where to get them - I beg you!
Kaysails@yahoo.com

Alex said...

so cute! Great job. I get inspired and discouraged at the same time reading your blog! Discouraged only because I'm still such a beginner!

Isabelle said...

You look fabulous, Christina! So hot! Love the buttons.
I never paid attention to this pattern - bad mistake!

Pirouette said...

FAB-U-LOUS! I love all of the details that make this dress special.

Cennetta said...

Extra Cute!

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the yardage heads up! But I still love your dress and think you look really great in it!

susan

Adriana said...

Absolutely love the dress and the modern touch to it! The button detail is something I have never seen before!
Adriana

Beth said...

I love it! I want one too!

Katrin said...

Hello Christina,
I would not have thought that this dress is so flattering looking at the magazine. Yours is truly great!

Regards,
Katrin

Erica B. said...

How did I miss this???? You look so fabulous in this! What a cute dress! Love it!

Charity said...

This looks really, really awesome on you! Great color and choice of notions!

Charity

ed said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.