Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Sewing swimwear - it's not as hard as you think!

I am waaaay behind in getting my projects onto this blog!  In late June, we flew to the East Coast for a weeklong vacation in Nantucket, meeting quite a few members of Tim's family there.  It was my first time there and I absolutely loved it!  Not only because it was our first taste of Summer 2011, but the island is just so picturesque and lovely.

  

  

If you love beach cottage style, Nantucket is your heaven.  We rented bikes one afternoon and took L out for her first ride.  She actually fell asleep during the ride!  She did great during the whole trip, but naps?  Fugetaboutit.  So pretty much anytime we got in the car (or on a bike!), she was out.

I wanted some new swimwear for the trip.  And I didn't want to spend hours in tiny dressing rooms with fluorescent lights trying on pieces that only half appealed to me.  So I decided to try my hand at sewing swimwear.  I figured the results couldn't be much worse than RTW.

The very first thing I did was arm myself with some knowledge about sewing swimwear.  Two resources that helped pump me up:

1. Lori's Sew Forth Now podcast, Episode 5: Dive into Swimsuits. In this episode, she interviews Anne St Clair on the ins and outs of sewing swimwear. I highly recommend a listen if you are planning to sew swimwear! She talks about needles, stitch types, elastic, fabric stretch - all the details of swimwear.

2. Threads Magazine #131, the June/July 2007 issue has an article "Inside Secrets of a Swimsuit" that provides info similar to the podcast, and of course the pictures are helpful.

Patterns
  

I made the McCall's 5400 tankini and the McCall's 3566 boyshorts.

Fabrics
Milliskin Matte with 4-way stretch in Navy for the fashion fabric (it's a very nice, weighty material), and nylon lining (HSL-02) for the lining, both from Spandex House.

Notes on construction/alterations


 
McCalls 5400 tank, tied and untied

The tankini is fully lined and the pattern instructions are very clear, this turned out to be an easier project than I anticipated and could certainly be made in one evening if one is determined to do so.  The front is made of two pieces with a horizontal seam just under the bust.  You leave a slit in that seam at center front, then you put a tie through to cinch the center front together, creating a nice shape at the bust.  There are separate pattern pieces for the upper front for A/B, C and D cup sizes.

 

I went to my local fabric shop to find bra cups, but they only had sew-in cups, which I didn't want.  The wonderful saleswoman there tipped me off that if you go to the swimwear section of a large department store, they will often have random, orphan bra cups that they're willing to give to you - free!  So I dutifully headed downtown to Seattle's favorite department store, and sure enough I was allowed to dig through a box of homeless swim bra cups.  I found quite a few matching pairs and took 2 sets.

Now, if you sew this pattern as instructed, it won't accomodate removable bra cups, but it's easy to create a pocket for these.  I cut a second lining piece for the upper front, but cut about an inch off at each side seam.  Layer this with the regular lining piece for the upper front, and be sure to leave the narrower lining piece's sides free when you are sewing the side seams.  You'll end up with a pocket where you will be able to slip the bra cups in.

 

The McCalls 3566 boyshorts were even easier to sew.  Other reviews I've read of these boyshorts said that they run large, so I made a size 10 (I used a 12 in the tankini - and did quickie muslins of both to check the sizing).  I took some height off the waistline and I took some length off the legs so they were more like a pair of RTW swim shorts that I like.

The pattern instructions advise you to line just the crotch, but instead I created a full lining.


Conclusion
Together, these pieces are somewhat reminiscent of a retro style suit.  These simple styles were perfect for me to "dip my toes into" the world of sewing swimwear (pun intended).  I have another pattern for a one-piece suit that I am hoping to tackle before a trip to Maui next month.

If you have been considering sewing swimwear, give it a try!  At worst, you'll lose a half yard of fabric and a few hours of your time.   More likely, you will probably end up with a half decent swimsuit!

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Tutorial: Nursing alteration for t-shirt sewing pattern


Can you stand another post in which I mention breastfeeding? Since this week is World Breastfeeding Week, I thought it would be a perfect time to show you my absolute favorite (and one of the very few) nursing tops that I made, and how you can make your own!


About a year ago, my local BurdaStyle Sewing Club had a sew-along in which we all used the BurdaStyle Lydia t-shirt pattern to sew a top for ourselves. It was great to see everyone's interpretations. I used the pattern as a starting point for a top based on a RTW nursing top that I saw online (and can no longer find to show you, unfortunately...).


Fabric
Navy/cream striped fine sweater-knit cotton jersey purchased during Summer 2010 at Pacific Fabrics.  The bolt was actually labelled "100% recycled cotton jersey" - recycled from what, I don't know...


Notes on construction/tutorial
I didn't take any photos during construction so hopefully words will suffice.  I know, a tutorial with no photos is no fun.  Sorry.

There are a few different ways you could make this style, but here's how I did it:

1.  Cut out the front, back, and sleeves as normal.  I altered mine by cutting a deeper front neckline and by cutting the side seams a bit wider with more of an A-line shape, and I also added length.  During those first few post-partum months, I avoided anything fitted in the waist!

2.  Cut a second front bodice piece, but not the full length - this will be the shorter, top layer of the bodice.  You'll want it to fall at least a few inches below your bra band.  For now it's better to cut it too long than too short, you can check the length in a bit.  I'll refer to this as the "short front" and the other front bodice as the "long front".

3.  Stitch the 2 fronts together at the neckline, with the wrong side of the "long front" facing the right side of the "short front".  Turn so that the "short front" is laying on top of the "long front".  You should be looking at the right side of the fabric on both pieces.  Baste together at the shoulders.

4. Finish the neckline of the back bodice with your preferred method.  I used a strip of the fashion fabric to bind the back neck, you could also just press the raw edge to the inside and topstitch.

5.  Stitch the front and back bodices together at the shoulder seams.  Stabilize those shoulder seams with some interfacing, if you're so inclined.

6.  Now is a good time to check the length of the "short front".  Baste the side seams together (we're still sleeveless at this point) and put the top on.  You'll want the "short front" to provide a bit of coverage below your bust, but the final length is up to you.  Cut off length to shorten if necessary.

7.  Hem the "short front" with your preferred method.  I decided to play with the direction of the stripes of my fabric and hemmed it with a narrow band.  Baste the "short front" and "long front" together at the side seams.

8.  Stitch the sleeves to the bodice.  I always set my sleeves in flat when I'm working with knits.

9.  Stitch the sleeve seams and side seams.

10.  Hem the sleeves and bodice, again however you prefer.  I used vertical stripe bands to hem my sleeves in order to complement the bodice.

11.  Now put the top on and mark both bust points on the "long front".  Take off the top and cut a small circle around each bust point.  Smaller is better at first, you can always cut a larger circle if necessary but you can't go the other way!  Initially I tried cutting just a slit instead of a circle, but that didn't provide great access for me, so I ended up with circles.

Voila!  You are the proud owner of a stylish nursing top.


Conclusion
I get a lot of compliments on this top.  From people who don't know it's a nursing top.  (I think it's the stripes, actually.)    It's so simple yet one of my favorite pieces I've ever made.

Leave a comment or shoot me an email if you have any questions about the construction!

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

June Burda Magazine tunic blouse

At long last, I finally got around to having Tim to snap some pictures of the June Burda top that I made.


This is the kind of garment that I just luuurve.  My office is pretty casual, I work at a computer most of the day, so I wear it just like this both to work and on my days off.


Fabric
I used a cotton chambray that I bought from the Britex remnant table during their 2009 Black Friday sale when I was with my sewing BFFs Cindy and Leslie.  It's heavenly, like something you'd expect too see in a nice men's shirt.

Notes on construction/alterations
It's your standard woven shirt construction, nothing that'll surprise you.



The front bodice has both a pleat and gathers where it meets the front yoke.  The design is very similar to  the Anthropologie Puckered Pocket Blouse, which has a pleat at the front yoke and also has pleated sleeves (and, interestingly, no pocket mentioned in the online description).


You are supposed to cut 2 back pieces, stitch them together at the CB line and topstitch along that seam. This is a straight seam and I accidentally cut it on the fold.  I thought the back might look too plain, so I cut a 1" strip of my fashion fabric, tucked the raw edges under and topstitched it along what would have been the CB seam.  It's kinda straight.  Kinda.

Baby's in bed and mama's off to Trader Joe's


I guess I should also mention that the top 2 buttons are on the v-neck and not intended to be buttoned, I just included one of those.


Conclusion
Like I said, I love this shirt.  Before I made this, I was all set to make the dress version too (style 105).  Now I'm not so sure that'd I'd love it as a dress.  We'll see.

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I have several other new pieces to share with you. Swimwear(!) for me, and clothes for the kiddo. Stay tuned.