If it doesn't fit, make it in a knit

I realize I haven't done a good job of sharing my baby bump with you so far.  But rest assured, it's there and growing day by day, well beyond the "is she or isn't she?" stage, thank goodness.  It's definitely to the point that most of my regular clothes don't fit and my new requirement for tops and dresses is that they must be either knits and/or have an empire waist. Let the maternity sewing officially begin!

Burda magazine 2-2009-110

I have been coveting this BWOF pattern every since I saw Birgitte's fun silk charmeuse version. Even though it's not a maternity pattern, it has the necessary characteristics - an empire waist and a flowy, roomy area below the bust.

I flat-measured the waist on the pattern and found it would have plenty of room and then some, so I went ahead and cut the top in a purple silk/cotton woven shirting (I've mentioned before this is one of my favorite fabrics ever, it's available here at Fabric.com and I've seen it at various indie fabric stores; I used it to make this purple dress and this green dress). I cut my regular, trustworthy, Burda size 38 and set to work. Here's the outcome:

I knew my bust had grown, I had to buy new bras after all, but it never dawned on me that I'd be playing for Team FBA now! Sigh... I did wear the top once, to my BurdaStyle sewing club get-together last weekend. The poor little buttons are just straining to keep the top closed; if I just button the bottom two and wear a cami underneath, it's still obvious, so I think that'll be the last time I can wear it until I have my post-pregnancy, post-nursing bust back.

Back view - love the shape

27 weeks

My only modification to this pattern was to gather the sleeve hems onto a narrow sleeve band, instead of finishing the sleeve hems with elastic in a casing, which I think tends to looks Becky Home Ec-y (that doesn't mean you won't ever see me use that finish, though!).

Still, I couldn't get the style out of my head, I really like it and I find the style to be flattering as maternity-wear. Lightbulb moment - make it in a knit! The bodice is close enough to fitting, a knit would easily accommodate the negative ease situation, and no FBA necessary!

I rifled through the stash and found some chocolate rayon/lycra jersey (same stuff I used to make Simplicity 2850). My modifications:

1) I cut the upper front bodice on the fold instead of in 2 pieces, and scooped out the neckline a bit. Not having to stitch up tiny bias button loops and a bias band finish for the neck were major timesavers!

2) I lined the bodice with black tissue knit, mainly to give it an easy neckline finish.

3) I borrowed an idea from Jazz Couture's gorgeous LMB tunics to finish the sleeve hem with a self-fabric drawstring in a casing. My drawstrings don't look quite as delicate as hers, next time I would sew them a bit more narrow.

4) Because of the stretchiness of the knit, I was able to omit the invisible zipper in the side seam.

I am so happy with the knit version of this pattern, and the best part is with all of my modifications, it's a pretty quick little garment to sew up.  I have plans to make another, in a dress length, and I think I'll change up the front pleat for a little variety.

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Next up, a comparison of a BWOF and a Jalie - both empire crossover knit tops, but two oh so different outcomes...