Maybe I'm just not meant to sew myself a New Years Eve outfit. Long time readers may recall the New Years Eve Butterick dress muslin disaster of 2007. In 2008, I was stymied by a sprained wrist. And today, I present to you the New Years Eve dress muslin letdown of 2009, again, a Butterick pattern...
Butterick 5418 is a Maggy London design, a knit dress with interesting pleating at both the front and back neckline.
Images courtesy Nordstrom.com - (left) Maggy London drape jersey dress, (right) Maggy London drape jersey dress - plus size
I found pics of the RTW dress on Nordstrom's website, you can see the front pleat detail best on the solid blue dress.
I chose this pattern because of its obvious easy accomodation for a large belly. But pregnant or not, this pattern would have turned out to be a dud either way, I'm afraid.
I envisioned making this dress in the olive green silk jersey that I bought last month at Stonemountain and Daughter in Berkeley. With some gold jewelry, it could be dressed up for evening, or with chunky wood jewelry, it would be a fun summer dress. For my muslin, I used a dark olive rayon/lycra jersey. (I always buy rayon/lycra jersey but then I can never manage to keep it wrinkle-free! Am I missing some secret? I'm forbidding myself from purchasing any more).
This pattern has an easy rating, but note that the pleats are very time consuming, even though I just matched the pleat-lines haphazardly for the muslin, the work felt neverending.
One thing I like about this dress is the bodice lining (Butterick calls it a "foundation"). It ends just below the bust, and has elastic casing to hold it snug against the body.
Same thing is happening at the back neckline, the lining can't stand up to the weight of the pleats, and again the understitching is exposed.
Also, there is some puddling happening above my rear end, which I think is caused by my large belly and hips and could be easily resolved by letting the seams out. I cut a size 10 to fit my shoulders and bust, everything below the bust needs to be a bit bigger!
I would love to see the RTW dress in person to see if it has the same issue with the bodice lining being exposed. I'm not certain how to resolve it and therefore I won't continue with this project. Pressing the seam doesn't seem to help. Too bad really, I followed the pattern instructions closely, I imagine others will have this same issue too.
Oh well, nothing like last minute dress shopping..!