I am attending a foodie dinner on Friday and a wedding on Saturday, so I'm wanting some new dresses. I want to use a lapped zipper on at least one, and an all-in-one facing/lining in the other. Both new-to-me techniques. Last weekend Leslie told me that when she's learning a new technique, she practices it over and over using different tutorials until she's completely got it down. I did each of these once and I'm calling it good enough.
I'm using this in the center back seam of the BurdaStyle Coffee Date dress. The lapped zipper seems vintage and classy to me for some reason. The bodice of my dress is silk and it could use a classy zipper finish.
Threads Magazine issue 134 (Dec 2007/Jan 2008) has an article on lapped zipper insertion by the singularly-named Rosebud. For my test run, I used a pretty chunky zipper because it's what I had available. She suggests using 1/2" wide hair tape as a template on the outside of the garment to sew around. I only had 3/4" wide Scotch tape, so I used that as my template and sewed over it, thinking it would still be easy to peel off. It wasn't. I'll have to find another template for the real thing.
If you read BWOF, you'll know that sometimes they mention a method to face or line a sleeveless garment in which a wooden spoon comes in handy. The only illustration they show is a wooden spoon handle pushing through the sleeve. This is what they're talking about!
Claire Shaeffer has a great tutorial in High Fashion Sewing Secrets called "How to Sew a Narrow All-in-One Shoulder Facing". The drawings a relatively clear, but for me, it's one of those techniques that I didn't really understand until I just cut up some fabric and tried it myself.
Dress 1 (coffee date) should be done in a couple hours, and hopefully I can get a muslin started for dress 2 (TBD) before the day is over.