This is the shirt that I traced last week:
And here is the first muslin:
Overall I'm pretty happy with it but there are a few things that need tweaking:
The sleeves are traced from a different shirt (Tim liked those sleeves better), but they have major wrinkles pointing towards the underarm. I think I need to change the angle of the sleeve downward for such a close-fitting shirt. I had a major epiphany the other day when I read David Coffin's explanation of how the sleeve cap relates to sleeve angle (page 55 of Shirtmaking). Wow! Sleeve cap height (low vs. high) and its effect on sleeve fit used to be such a mystery to me. It seems so obvious now that I know.
I'm going to carve out a bit of the back bodice armhole. And I think it's a teensy bit tight in the chest, so I will add some width there.
I also pinned out back darts but I think that's fitting overkill, so I won't include those in the final shirt. Back when I showed you BWOF 3-2009-131, which includes back darts, Dawn commented that her husband thought darts were only for women. In Shirtmaking, DPC rants about back darts in men's shirts, saying they are sign of poor shaping at the side seams. I assume he is referring to dress shirts, as many of Tim's non-dress button-ups that I examined have back darts or back princess seams. Pamela noted that darts are indeed a current trend in fashionable menswear. BTW Pamela, if you noticed on your live traffic feed last week that someone from Seattle, WA, was going through and reading your entire blog, it wasn't a stalker, that was me trying to learn more about shirtmaking!
Now I'm off to Gorgeous Fabrics to pick up a couple of shirtings during Ann's well-timed sale on cottons this weekend!
Jalie Jeans x Three: Jalie 2908
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