First, I want to thank everyone for the feedback on the MK dress (Vogue 1090). Clearly there is meant to be a fair amount of ease in the dress - a fact that I overlooked when choosing a size. As Patsijean said, it is not intended to fit like a sheath dress, which is how I was approaching it.
Barbara gave some helpful tips on adjusting the armscye. She also noted this fitting issue is sometimes seen when someone has a small upper back & a very erect posture, which made me chuckle as my posture is anything but. I swear I could be about 2 inches taller if I worked at it.
A couple of people suggested adding a bust dart - and there is already a bust dart included, so more adjustment possibilities exist there.
Bonnie suggested adding an underarm gusset. I already gave the dress to my coworker last week, otherwise I'd certainly give this a try.
Patsijean mentioned that she had not heard of Vogue's reputation for having a large amount of ease, just McCalls and Simplicity. I have definitely had problems with McCalls in the past and I just assumed that it was a blanket issue with McCalls, Vogue, and Butterick since they are related. I reviewed some of my previous (and infrequent) Vogue pattern reviews and found that usually I did not adjust for size, more often for personal preference (i.e. wanting less flare in a sleeve). I cut the MK dress one size smaller than I typically do with Vogue, but I'm thinking I'll need to go up at least 2 sizes. So, Vogue, I apologize for doubting your sizing! In the future I will trust, but verify...
Liana noted that the photos on the Vogue designer pattern envelopes are the actual designer garments, not a garment that was drafted from the Vogue pattern. I knew that this was true of Patrones but I didn't know it about Vogue! In that case, now I know it's helpful to study the runway photos of the garment to know how the designer intended for the garment to fit.
I was really trying to avoid making a muslin, but it looks like now I'll have to do exactly that!
March 2009 Burda magazine
A lot of people said that the February 2009 issue of Burda magazine was one of the best. I tend to agree even though I haven't sewn a single thing from it yet! But the more I look at March 2009, the more I am liking it. These are top on my list:
I love longer tunic style tops in the summer. I've got this in progress with a white gauzy linen. It's got interesting seamlines - the front yoke and the undercollar are cut as one piece. I'm in the midst of this unconventional collar construction right now, so cross your fingers for me, and I'll show you the details soon.
Trench coat 115
A spread on trench coats includes an up close look at the classic Burberry trench. Coats 114 and 115 are unlined, which would be a perfect way to use the Burberry coating that we all went crazy for in early 2008. I had been thinking of following Leslie's lead, she used BWOF 1-2008-128 and ended up with this uber-fabulous trench. But maybe I should use this new pattern instead so I won't be a total copycat.
Men's shirt 131
Typically the mens patterns in Burda magazine are not really my husband's style, but some of this month's patterns come pretty close if done in the right fabrics. This fitted button up with epaulets may be my first rendezvous with menswear.