Monday, March 2, 2009

MK dress feedback, March Burda mag

Michael Kors dress

First, I want to thank everyone for the feedback on the MK dress (Vogue 1090). Clearly there is meant to be a fair amount of ease in the dress - a fact that I overlooked when choosing a size. As Patsijean said, it is not intended to fit like a sheath dress, which is how I was approaching it.

Barbara gave some helpful tips on adjusting the armscye. She also noted this fitting issue is sometimes seen when someone has a small upper back & a very erect posture, which made me chuckle as my posture is anything but. I swear I could be about 2 inches taller if I worked at it.

A couple of people suggested adding a bust dart - and there is already a bust dart included, so more adjustment possibilities exist there.

Bonnie suggested adding an underarm gusset. I already gave the dress to my coworker last week, otherwise I'd certainly give this a try.

Patsijean mentioned that she had not heard of Vogue's reputation for having a large amount of ease, just McCalls and Simplicity. I have definitely had problems with McCalls in the past and I just assumed that it was a blanket issue with McCalls, Vogue, and Butterick since they are related. I reviewed some of my previous (and infrequent) Vogue pattern reviews and found that usually I did not adjust for size, more often for personal preference (i.e. wanting less flare in a sleeve). I cut the MK dress one size smaller than I typically do with Vogue, but I'm thinking I'll need to go up at least 2 sizes. So, Vogue, I apologize for doubting your sizing! In the future I will trust, but verify...

Liana noted that the photos on the Vogue designer pattern envelopes are the actual designer garments, not a garment that was drafted from the Vogue pattern. I knew that this was true of Patrones but I didn't know it about Vogue! In that case, now I know it's helpful to study the runway photos of the garment to know how the designer intended for the garment to fit.

I was really trying to avoid making a muslin, but it looks like now I'll have to do exactly that!


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March 2009 Burda magazine

A lot of people said that the February 2009 issue of Burda magazine was one of the best. I tend to agree even though I haven't sewn a single thing from it yet! But the more I look at March 2009, the more I am liking it. These are top on my list:



Blouse 106
I love longer tunic style tops in the summer. I've got this in progress with a white gauzy linen. It's got interesting seamlines - the front yoke and the undercollar are cut as one piece. I'm in the midst of this unconventional collar construction right now, so cross your fingers for me, and I'll show you the details soon.




Trench coat 115
A spread on trench coats includes an up close look at the classic Burberry trench. Coats 114 and 115 are unlined, which would be a perfect way to use the Burberry coating that we all went crazy for in early 2008. I had been thinking of following Leslie's lead, she used BWOF 1-2008-128 and ended up with this uber-fabulous trench. But maybe I should use this new pattern instead so I won't be a total copycat.


Men's shirt 131
Typically the mens patterns in Burda magazine are not really my husband's style, but some of this month's patterns come pretty close if done in the right fabrics. This fitted button up with epaulets may be my first rendezvous with menswear.

19 comments:

Tany said...

I feel the same way about the March BWOF... The blouse 106 is my favorite pattern so far

www.anadiaz.fr said...

Lots of projects! Looking forward to seeing the results, espacially for the trench!
Greetings from Paris

cidell said...

There are too many great things going on with the last two BWOFs.

I also need to get on my trench coat.

And, I think they are right. Vogue does not have as much crazy ease. I have a slew of wrong-sized patterns for them because I also assumed they had that ease.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I have been reading and re-reading the instructions for blouse 106 and can't *quite* picture the step where you sew the undercollar to the yoke/collar (if the undercollar is already sewn to the back neck and the yoke is already sewn to the front and the shoulders, how do you get them right sides together????). So I'm eagerly awaiting the results of your experiment!

melissa said...

Huh, I didn't know that about the Vogue designer patterns either!

I'm so jealous you got the March issue already. I really want to un-petite the petite dress for my birthday at the end of March so the sooner it arrives, the longer I'll have to tweak the fit!

Lindsay T said...

Me too, I like that tunic blouse.

Sometimes BWOFs grow on you, right?

The MSILF said...

Ack, March isn't out here yet. I need more FABRIC. I loved Feb, but have no fabric to sew!

Nancy K said...

Tunic blouse is on my list too. I am looking around for a trenchcoat pattern so that I too can get it done! I have the black too. I also bought the lining and some red wool and cashmere for a button out lining for this.

Leslie said...

Ooh that blouse is nice! And I was also looking at the trench patterns in the recent BWOF (just to torture myself). So many options! I think you are on the right track with a raglan style sleeve because of the fabric. But it's so fantastic it'll make any pattern look good.

cidell said...

I just wanted to add I was a little disappointed that they did not give directions on making the button out lining. I need to borrow someone's lining book.

paco peralta said...

nice projects, really.....

Sewfast said...

Hi Christina,
I nominated you for the Sisterhood award...go check out what I said about you! Mary :)

Donna said...

Well, this month was my first BWOF. I want to make the long sleeved mens shirt, the white blouse and a dress. However, I really don't know the best way to trace the patterns or where to get some tracing pattern paper. Can anybody help me. I don't see great so I will have to have some help with this.

Myraida Aka Mimi said...

I left an award for you on my blog :)

Rachel said...

I love that first top. Check out my blog for your Sisterhood Award.

pukey b said...

I just subscribed to BWOF and got my first issue a few days ago - I've already got #102 dress traced and ready to go.. I'm happy that it's the sewing course this month!

Donna - try tracing paper on the roll from the art department at your local Michael's equivalent. I've been using a compass to get the 5/8" seam allowance add-on to the pattern pieces and so far, so good.

My Fabrication said...

I love the blouse pattern. Unfortunately the 'latest' BWOT to hit the stands is December 2008! I can't wait for the March issue in June

My Fabrication said...

Me again. Forgot to mention that I live in Sydney. I think they must arrive by sea mail

Christina said...

Donna - Email me (my address is on the righthand side) and I can point you to some online resources on using Burda magazine patterns.

My Fabrication - I've wondered why the magazine is several months delayed in Australia. It's unfair! They could easily put them on a plane...