Monday, December 15, 2008

Biker jacket



FYI: I used pictures for this post to test out the collage features on Picnik, a site that Lindsay turned us on to in a recent post. It's a pretty cool site and much of it is free to use!

Pattern

BWOF 11-2005-117 This is a lined, princess-seam jacket with 2 part sleeves and an asymmetrical front zipper closing.



Fabric
Fashion fabric: Anna Sui coating, an impulse purchase from Emma One Sock during Summer 2008. It consists of two layers: a layer of shiny polyester quilted onto a layer of fleece. I used a Microtex 75 needle and it worked great.

Lining: Acetate (? I don't remember anymore) twill from my local fabric shop.

I didn't interface any part of this jacket - I don't know if it's standard practice to interface quilted fabrics/fleece, but BWOF didn't advise me to do so, so I didn't.

Notes on construction/alterations
A similar style of lined jacket was the "illustrated sewing course" for this issue, so reading over those instructions provided helpful insight to the construction of this jacket. There was only one step that I didn't understand (and was not included in the illustrated sewing course) which was their description of how to attach the left zipper to the left front bodice. I figured out my own way to attach the zipper using the long strip of fabric they have you cut, so no biggie. Speaking of zippers, I am indebted to the creator of Wonder Tape. I used it to baste all of the zippers in place before sewing. I love that stuff!


I used the lining fabric for the front of the pocket and fashion fabric for the back pocket piece.


In my last post, I mentioned that easing the sleeves was challenging and I had some ripping and resewing ahead of me. Well, I tried the good 'ol method of sewing two rows of basting stitches in the seam allowance & tugging the bobbin thread, and to my surprise this worked remarkably well for easing the fabric to fit the armhole.

When it came to the lining, I found two books to be helpful. For drafting, I used the Easy Guide to Sewing Linings by Connie Long. She shows how to make a lining pattern specifically for a jacket with princess seams, and for 2-pieces sleeves, including the adjustments to make to the shoulder area to accomodate a shoulder pad (I used 1/2" shoulder pads in this jacket). I had never completely bagged a lining by machine before, so this is where Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets by Cecelia Podolak came in handy. Both books described how to do this, but I felt the photographs in Podolak's book illustrated the process better, especially how to machine sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve hem.


I used a decorative stitch on the center back pleat of the lining; this type of stitching always reminds me of Tany as she includes this on all of her amazing jackets and coats. A small piece of ribbon will function as a coat hook.

Conclusion
When I bought this fabric from EOS, I had no clue what to do with it. Burda rescued me with this biker style jacket designed especially for quilted fabrics - the fabric wasn't hard to sew at all, and I won't shy away from it in the future (have you seen this awesome coat?). Winter arrived just this weekend (as you can see in the pictures) but the cold temperatures are not going to stop me from wearing my new jacket!

61 comments:

Jennifer said...

Wow, that's amazing. well done!

melissa said...

I. love. this!

It's perfect for this fabric, too. And would you believe I've actually got that issue (I think I bought it for the spa patterns way back in the day)? I had completely discounted these patterns since I never seen quilted fabric in shops here, but you've made me really covet this now!

Nancy K said...

Terrific jacket. I use Cecilia Podolak's instructions for bagging a jacket too and find it one of the better set of instructions that I have seen. Great use of fabric and pattern on this and it looks great on you.

Anonymous said...

Amazing jacket! You are really showing a high skill level to produce such a professional garment. It looks just fabulous and beautifully made. All those zips look so well done. The fabric looks like it wouldn't give you a second chance. Congratulations! I do alot of the same BWOF tops as you, however, I won't be going anywhere near this one - you've set the bar too high!
Natasha

Cennetta said...

BRAVO! Outstanding job on the jacket. Love the inside treatment. Beautiful inside and out.

Alison said...

Your jacket looks fabulous! A perfect blend of fabric and pattern. Congratulations on a job well done.

cidell said...

No one will ever believe you made this. I almost don't believe you made it! What an awesome, gorgeous jacket!!

Lisa said...

You Rock!

katherine h said...

Wow, you look fab! That jacket is certainly worthy of your label.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Christina - this is such an awesome jacket! You did a great job on it and thanks for including the book references...I own both books and agree they are wonderful!

loopylulu said...

You did such a good job matching the fabric to an appropriate pattern. I just love this jacket on you. It looks great!

Cindy said...

It really looks nice on you!

Rachel said...

That jacket is AMAZING!!! I can't quit staring at it. It looks so good on you, too. You have a great sense of fashion and I love your haircut.

stacysews said...

This, by far, is my favorite Burda WOF project you've made all year! Great work!

Sew4Fun said...

Fabulous jacket! It really suits you and I love your photos too. Amazing sewing. It looks very expensive.

Melissa said...

What an amazing jacket - I LOVE IT!!!! Beautiful work!!

MadeByAmanda said...

Very nice jacket! I would have totally avoided it because of the quilted fabric. Nice to hear that it wasn't too hard.

Claire S. said...

Amazing jacket ! It looks great on you !

Columbia Lily said...

That looks incredible!!! Way to go chica!! Is it warm too?

Lori said...

This jacket is amazing. You look fantastic.

Lindsay T said...

Fantastic! I love everything about this jacket, and great job on the Picnik photos (isn't it a cool site?!). I am so making a biker jacket in 2009.

Nancy (nanflan) said...

I love this jacket! You are a fearless sewer--I love your attitude of just going for it, and making it work.

Sue said...

Great jacket!

Catherine said...

This is so professional looking - outstanding work!

Sarah said...

Love your jacket! I favorited those books for the day I'm brave enough to try a jacket/coat :D

Amanda S. said...

Ooh, I love it. Great job. I'm in love with that parka in the December issue as well.

Leslie in Austin said...

I *have* seen that awesome coat in the Dec Burda and have all the makings of my version ready to go. If it turns out even a fraction as nice as your biker jacket, I will be thrilled. That is a masterpiece you've created!!!

AllisonC said...

You did an amazing job with this, it looks so good on you.

Geri said...

very cool!

senaSews said...

WOW, I LOVE IT! You made perfect use of this fabric. The jacket is awesome!

Maja said...

What a stunning jacket! You did an amazing job! Absolutely gorgeous!

Joleo said...

Wow - that jacket is amazing. Plus you look great in it :)

Sigrid said...

Gorgeous jacket. No one will believe you made it yourself. It looks very high end RTW.

Tany said...

I LOVE IT!!!!!! It looks FABULOUS, professionally made! You look stunning in it!

Elaray said...

The jacket looks great!

Adrienne said...

Stunning!!!!

verobirdie said...

Gorgeous! And you seem to have had fun.
I'm reluctant to sew that kind of fabrics, but after reading your post, I feel I could give it a try :-)
Thanks for sharing your experience.

Adriana B. said...

Amazing! Really Impressed!

Gwen said...

Wow! That is HOT! ;)

Krystal (aka Pirouette) said...

Your jacket is smokin'!

Machelle said...

Fantastic job. That is a great jacket

Kim Hood said...

Magnificent! You should be very proud of yourself.

sewbluetiful said...

Wow, you did a great job on that jacket,,it looks so professional,

Mickie

elbereth said...

You are a rock star! What a great job. It's just fantastic and very, very inspiring!

Leslie said...

Christina I know you've got a Neiman's receipt for the jacket somewhere because there's no way that's homemade! WOW! This is one of my favorite pieces ever on you. Amazing.

Sewellen said...

OMG!!! That is such an awesome jacket! You did a fab-yoooo-lous job on it! Love it!!

Vicki said...

Wow, what a fabulous job you have done on this jacket! Very, very, very nice!!

Tanya said...

Fantastic!!! You should be very proud, love everything about it.

Dana said...

Great jacket! You did a fantastic job!

Cindy said...

really like the pikwic/picnic whatever........effect:)
You are so ready for Marfy Jackets. You will tons of expensive jackets now!

Katie said...

WOWZA! What an awesome jacket. You did a great job.

Faye Lewis said...

Very nice jacket!

LauraLo said...

This is an amazing jacket, I love it-love it-love it! And it's so you!

Sara said...

This jacket is completely awesome! Congratulations!

Sheila said...

Awesome jacket... all you need is a Harley and you are set. Thanks for the book references.

ambika said...

It looks absolutely amazing. The fabric was made to be that jacket. & this cold snap won't last--you'll be wearing it all winter I'm sure.

liz said...

wow - you did a great job! totally impressed!

alexa said...

That looks amazing! I love your nail polish color as well!!

gruenetree said...

LOVE, Love, Love your jacket! Excellent work. That smugish smile is rightly deserved!

Angel said...

You made a fantastic work. I'm a little ashamed when I see your crations. By the way, I love your blog, I read it often.

subversivesewer said...

holy crap, lady! That is phenomenal! You are a sewing goddess!!