Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Follow-up on the purple blouse

I want to send out a huge thanks to all of you for your feedback on my Anthro-esque blouse - I really appreciate it!

Some of you left questions and suggestions, and since I know you have better things to do than to stalk my blog comments, I'll summarize the info here.


Cidell asked "Now, how would you have stablized the neckline given that it's a sheer fabric?"

To which I repsonded "I think you could cut a strip of organza, or selvedge from the fashion fabric, baste this on the sewing line, then trim it after the neckline is sewn."

Will selvedge curve to the neckline? Now I'm thinking not. Bias organza would probably be better?

Colette added "another great way to stabilise areas like necklines etc on sheers is to use a product called 'Tear away '. It is a papery-like vilene, and using this cut a 1" shield pattern piece that is the shape of your neckline (lets say)attach it to the neck edge and then when you attach your facing it it will not stretch. Once you finish attaching the facing ( or your other front in this case ) you tear away the vilene shield. It's fabulous stuff. "

There you go, another notion I didn't know about but now I need!


Geri asked "Is there a zipper or you just pull it over?"

I didn't show this but there is an invisible zipper in the left side seam.


Edited 3/12/08 to add:
the lazy milliner asked "Could you omit the zipper with a stretchy fabric?"

You could make this sans zipper in a knit fabric, but a woven fabric with lycra will still need a zip.

Melissa wrote "Do you think you have a bit of a forward shoulder that causing the problem?" [the limited range of motion in my arms]

You know, it wouldn't surprise me at all if I need a forward shoulder adjustment given how many hours a day I spend hunched over a computer. But I suspect this is a different issue as it's not something I've experienced with other Burda blouses.

I think this photo illustrates the problem well - how the sleeve hem cuts into my arm when I do the "hand on the hip" pose. I have noticed that my arms are growing wider with age (thanks, metabolism!) but for now I'll continue to blame the sleeve style as drafted.

patsijean suggested I remake the sleeves: "You have a basic cap sleeve; really just a shorter version of a regular short sleeve without the bottom. All you need to do is take your pattern and slash in 3 places through the hem and up to but not through the seam allowance along the cap of the sleeve. Spread the bottom about 1", which is about 3/8" each section, insert tissue or paper and tape. I love the idea of cutting on the bias fold. A recent issue of Threads (March 2008, #135) has an article about bias cut sleeves. This should reduce the strain on your sleeve, not affect the style at all, and if not enough, you can spread the pattern some more."

I think this "slash and spread" is exactly what I need to do for better arm movement. *sigh* Back to the sewing room!


Mary Beth said...

You forgot my question. :)
Could you omit the zipper with a stretchy fabric?

Christina said...

Answer added above!

ifthisistuesday.wordpress.com said...

That top is so cute & the color gorgeous. This is just a guess, but, based on the sleeve chapter from Natalie Bray, Dress Fitting (an amazing book btw), the problem (if I'm understanding what she says correctly) is that the sleeve is set quite high on the shoulder (i.e. on the shoulder side of the "line" between the shoulder and arm), the sleeve crown/cap is deep, and the sleeve itself is narrow in circumference. Together, you end up with a range of motion limiting sleeve. Myself, I wouldn't widen the sleeve circumference in anyway, since that would alter the cool design. As you said, a stretchy material would help; so would lengthening the shoulder so the cap hits in the more usual place. You could also do a more anatomical redrafting of the cap (to get it more scooped out in the front--I can't tell from the photo what it's really drafted like, though), but I would say just don't raise your arms! It's too cute as is. Check out the Natalie Bray book if you ever get a chance; I think you'd find it really interesting.

Christina said...

LMH - Thanks for the info and the book recommendation, I'm going to try to find that one.