Monday, November 12, 2007

Deciding



This is my muslin for BWOF 10-2007-119, and I am trying to decide on button placement. The pattern calls for 6 buttons in front, like the top photo, and the bottom buttonhole is actually just an opening in a horizontal seam. There is a facing behind it, also with an opening in the horizontal seam, and you are supposed to hand stitch the opening. This seemed strange to me at first, but I did find this Paul and Joe Sister coat that also has a buttonhole in a horizontal seam, so I guess it's not so unusual.


vs.


I'm trying to decide if I want to have 8 buttons in front and just avoid the buttonhole-in-seam all together. I did take Susan Khalje's "Couture Hand Stitches" on Pattern Review, so I have info on how to hand stitch the buttonholes.







In order to "un-petite" the pattern, I compared my measurements to BWOF's petite chart measurements. I added just 1/2 inch length to the pattern pieces between the bust and waist, and 1/2" to the sleeves. Easy!

I added 1 inch to the collar height, but it's a little too tall, I'm going to remove 1/2 inch. Previously I had considered using the ruffled "statement" collar from Vogue 8438, but I decided against that. Instead, I am going to attempt to make a removable hood, using info provided in a November 2005 Threads article, "Build Lightweight Warmth into Coats." If I have enough fabric. More on that later.

27 comments:

Erica B. said...

I'm excited that you are making this coat. I had looked at it and thought that I would attempt to "unpetite" it.

Reethi said...

Wow, this looks great! I've been wanting to make this coat, but my sewing skills are too beginner. Perhaps I'll try it out with a muslin, and see where it goes...

Lisette M said...

I prefer the 6 buttonhole arrangement...just based on looks. Coat looks great!

Cidell said...

If this is your muslin, how nice is your real fabric? I think I like the six buttons. I love the in seam button. Either way though, it's going to be really cute.

Melissa said...

I'm so glad to read unpetiting a Burda WOF garment is so easy (sure wish it was that easy to downsize a plus pattern!). I agree with Cidell, that looks like pretty nice muslin fabric girl! I too prefer the 6 buttons. Can't wait to see it all done.

Leslie said...

Christina it looks fabulous already! So different on you as opposed to on the hanger. I also vote for the 6 buttons, something is aesthetically more pleasing, and then you have the option of wearing it belted like the Burda pic, which I actually really like. Are those the only adjustments you made? The fit is great.

Adriana said...

You need a button under the horizontal seam and having eight above the seam is too much.I would go with 8 buttons but do it like this: have the six as the pattern suggest and have the 7th and 8th below the horizobtal seam.

C. Dishmey said...

yeah you lost me at muslin....I think that is coat 1 of 2...it looks great already. I vote 6 buttons.

toya said...

6 buttons is the "trend", or at least that is what I've seen out and about, but I can see that 8 buttons "secures" it, so to speak, so it is really up to you IMO, trend or security?

Angela R said...

My vote is for 8 buttons, iimore secure and looks neater. Fab workmanship!

Stephanie said...

Wow! I can't believe this is just a muslin! I think both versions look great.

loopylulu said...

I thought this was the finished deal too! I like how the 6 button placement looks, it was the first picture to catch my eye before I even read the entry.

Vicki said...

I am another one for the 6 buttons. I like the inseam buttonhole. And this looks too good to be a muslin.

yaiAnn said...

If this is your muslin, can I have it when you're done? ;) I vote 6 buttons!

valerie said...

New to commenting on your blog, even though I've been reading it for a few weeks for inspiration - I like the six buttons; I read somewhere that an uneven number of rows of buttons is more pleasing to the eye. If you wanted the security of more buttons down the front, you could do a large lining covered snap under the waist seam to provide closure without adding more buttons. I've seen this detail a lot in higher end RTW.

Tracey said...

I like the eight buttons, but I also like having the buttonholes in the seam. Very nice muslin.

lsaspacey said...

I like the 6 buttons or if you do 8, then Adriana's suggestion, otherwise the seam messes it up.

Isabelle said...

This is looking great!
I'm going to say something completely daft, but given how cold it has gotten in Paris I can't help thinking about it: what about the warmth factor? I like the six buttons arrangement and the inseam button, they look cool. BUT the coat won't be as warm as if there are buttons lower down, because the coat won't close as well. I'm not sure how much of a factor this is for you.

This is going to be a great coat!!

LauraLo said...

Christina, I love this coat, it is number 2 on my list of sewing projects! Your muslin can turn easily into a wearable muslin, it looks gorgeous and it fits you very well.
My two cents on the number of buttons: in the magazine, the coat is worn with a wide belt, I think that's why the buttons stop at the seam. If you'll wear it more often with a belt, I say 6 buttons is enough. If you'll wear it unbelted, then I say 8 or 10 buttons, and the last 2 or 4 I'd place below that seam.

Lashell said...

Nice coat. I thought this was a FO. I also prefer the six buttons. I can't wait to see the fabric u are using for your finished garment

Johanna said...

The coat looks smashing! The 6 buttonhole version looks best at first glance, there is something about the high placement that makes the coat look very distinct. But I agree that they end too high up for full coverage from wind and low temperatures.
Maybe you could add a hidden button row?
8 buttons look great too, it's really a subtle difference :)

Berry said...

Is this what a muslin should look like, wow! I'm amazed. This coat will definitely look great on you. I'm a bit late and I add one vote to the 6 buttons.

Tany said...

Great choice! I love this coat! I vote for the 6 button version (I would keep the 6 button placement spots and add an extra 2 buttons bellow the horizontal seam). I like the buttonhole placed on the horizontal seam and I would keep that detail. But this is me, you should make your choice based on your feelings!

Anna said...

That will be a wonderful coat! I think I like the look of the 8 buttons better. Also, as already mentioned, 8 buttons would give better coverage from wind and cold.

Can't wait to see the finished product!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

I like the 8 buttons for keeping the coat closed but if you just want to be on trend go for 6.

rosanne said...

Great coat! I personally think the odd number of rows works better, echoing another comment above. So, I would say if you want more than the three rows, add two more, but do so below the horizontal seam. And, I love that you un-petite-ed the pattern! There was a suit in the May or June issue, I don't remember which, that caught my eye but I figured it would just be too much work to deal with the alterations. Thanks for showing us they way!

alexa said...

I love the 8 button look. It also appears to me to be a wearable muslin! Great job!!