BWOF Project of the Month: March, or, What to wear when you just need to stand around and look cute

BWOF 3-2008-109

Cute little top, isn't it? The style reminds me of an Anthropologie blouse I've worn about 100 times. I like how it turned out, but, there's a little problem..... I have no range of motion in my arms. More below.

Single layer of batiste to show sheerness

Fabric

50% silk/50% cotton batiste from Gorgeous Fabrics.

This fabric is sheer (as batiste is known to be!). I knew I'd have to line or underline this fabric in order to make it wearable.

Notes on construction/alterations

It figures that the one month I choose the pattern that is the special "sewing course", I decide to change up the construction enough that I really can't follow their directions! Well that's not entirely true, I did read through them quickly for a general idea of how to do things, and the pictures were helfpul when it was time to attach the center tab and gathered band.

The pattern calls for the neckline to be faced. I am not a big fan of this kind of neckline finish to begin with, and it wouldn't be practical anyway with my sheer fabric. I decided to self line the blouse with the fashion fabric - make 2 bodices, sew them right sides together at the neckline, and flip - this finishes the neckline at the same time.

I briefly considered stabilizing the neckline since much of it is cut on the bias. But, I was feeling lazy and so I told myself I'd be "real careful" not to stretch it. Bad idea. It stretched out.

I also used a double layer of fabric for the sleeves. Same idea - stitched them right sides together at the hem, then flipped so wrong sides were together.

I learned a new technique! Tany made a sheer blouse a while ago and described how to sew a "single thread dart". This technique comes from page 74 of Roberta Carr's book, Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing; Carr describes this as ideal for sheer fabrics as there are no thread tails. This was my first time trying single thread darts and they are very easy!

The gathered band that is under the bust is cut on the bias. The bias cut is important here - it allows the band to stretch snugly under the bust.

I finished the bodice and lining hems separately with baby hems.

Conclusion

So....the sleeves. Yes, they are super cute, so perfectly gathered and shaped around the shoulder. Regrettably, this oh-so-sweet shaping causes your arms' range of motion to be very limited - when you lift your arm, the hem of the sleeve cuts into your arm. I think you can kind of see this in the model photo. You are gonna need to style your hair and makeup before putting on this blouse.

If you simply must make this top, here are my suggestions:

• consider using a stretch woven or, better yet, a knit
• consider cutting the sleeves on the bias
• consider the sleeveless version (model 110) instead!

Besides the limited range of motion thing, I really do like this pattern! The center tab and gathered band are easy to do and really add something special to the top.